Design Preview Report: Sporty GMT Watch

For my final project, I am designing and assembling a custom dress GMT watch. The watch will feature an NH34 movement, a purchased case and bracelet, and a 3D-printed dial that I will design and fabricate myself. This project combines my passion for horology, design, and craftsmanship, with the goal of creating a timepiece that is both functional and aesthetically refined. The watch will embody the elegance of a sport GMT while incorporating a unique, artistic dial that reflects my personal style.

Inspirations and Existing Designs

My design is heavily inspired by the sporty GMT watches from luxury brands such as Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, particularly their emphasis on slim profiles, minimalist dials, and understated elegance. The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection, with its hand-painted dials and artistic motifs, has been a significant influence on my vision for the dial design. I aim to capture the same level of artistry and sophistication, albeit with my novice skills. 

In contrast, I also considered the rugged, utilitarian aesthetic of diver GMT watches from brands like Rolex and Omega. While I appreciate their durability and functionality, I ultimately decided against this style due to its bulkiness and sporty appearance, which do not align with my personal taste. My design leans toward the sport GMT category, with a focus on slim proportions, clean lines, and a dial that serves as a wearable art piece.

Vision and Specifications

My vision for this project is to create a dress GMT watch that combines practicality with artistic expression. The watch will feature:

• NH34 Movement: A reliable and affordable GMT-compatible movement that allows for dual-timezone functionality.
• Purchased Case and Bracelet: A slim, elegant case (38-40mm) and matching bracelet to achieve a refined aesthetic.
  • • Hand Painted. Dial I found on Reddit

• Custom Painted Dial: The centerpiece of the design, a hand painted impressionist dial, meant for my father who is an avid lover of the impressionist era. 

The watch will be designed to transition seamlessly from casual to formal settings, with a focus on versatility and timeless style. The dial will serve as the focal point, blending the functionality of a GMT complication with the beauty of a custom-designed art piece.

Alternate Aesthetics and Design Evolution

Initially, I considered two alternate aesthetics for the watch:

1. Classic Dress GMT: A minimalist design with a clean dial, slim case, and understated details.
2. Sporty Dress GMT: A slightly more robust design with bolder indices and a textured dial.

After sketching both options, I decided to pursue the classic dress GMT aesthetic, as it better aligns with my vision of creating a refined, elegant timepiece. However, I incorporated some elements from the sporty design, such as subtle texturing on the dial, to add visual interest without compromising the overall elegance.

Initial Sketches and Final Design Plans

Below are descriptions of my initial sketches and final design plans. 

 

Initial Sketches:

• Classic Dress GMT: Features a clean, uncluttered dial with slim hour markers, a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The case is slim and polished, with a matching bracelet.
• Sporty Dress GMT: Includes bolder hour markers, a textured dial, and a slightly thicker case. The overall design is more robust but still retains some dress watch elements.

1. Final Design:
   • The final design combines elements from both sketches, leaning heavily toward the classic dress GMT aesthetic. The dial will feature a 3D-printed texture inspired by Monet’s water lilies, with a gradient effect achieved through hand-painting if necessary. The case will be slim (38mm) and polished, with a matching bracelet for a cohesive look.

Prototyping and Fabrication Progress

To date, I have:

• Researched and purchased the NH34 movement, case, and bracelet.
• Created initial sketches and CAD drawings of the dial design.

Begun experimenting with all the ways I can add personal details to the watch. 

Timeline Graphic

Below is a textual representation of my timeline. 

Week 1-2: Research and inspiration gathering. Sketch initial designs and finalize the aesthetic direction.

1. Week 3-4: Purchase NH34 movement, case, and bracelet. Begin CAD design of the dial.
2. Week 5-6: Prototype the painted dial. Test different textures and finishes.
3. Week 7-8: Refine the dial design and begin assembly of the watch. Document the process with photos and videos.
4. Week 9-10: Finalize the watch assembly. Test the movement and functionality. Prepare the final design report.

Fabrication Process

The fabrication process will involve the following steps:

1. Hand-Painting: If the 3D-printed dial does not meet expectations, hand-paint the dial using enamel paints to create a textured, gradient effect.
2. Assemble the Watch: Install the NH34 movement into the purchased case, attach the dial, and secure the bracelet.
3. Test and Refine: Ensure the watch functions correctly and make any necessary adjustments.

 

Skills Acquisition

This project will require me to learn several new skills, including:

• Watch Assembly: Learning how to properly install a movement, attach a dial, and assemble a watch case.
• Hand-Painting: Developing the skill to paint intricate designs on a small surface using enamel paints.

Documentation

Throughout the project, I will document my progress with:

• Sketches and CAD Drawings: Visual representations of the design process.
• Photos and Videos: Capturing each step of the fabrication process, from prototyping to final assembly.
• Written Descriptions: Detailed explanations of each stage, including challenges and solutions.

Conclusion

This project represents the culmination of my passion for horology, design, and craftsmanship. By combining the practicality of a GMT complication with the artistry of a custom-designed dial, I aim to create a watch that is both functional and beautiful. The final product will reflect my vision of a dress GMT watch that seamlessly blends elegance, artistry, and timeless style.

 

 

Sources

https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/us/en/collections/metiers-d-art/7500u-000g-b991.html

https://www.everestbands.com/blogs/bezel-barrel/the-ultimate-tool-watch-diver-gmt

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